The last bike I used this un-sprung weight reducing trick on was my ’76 CB550F.

Your bikes charging system is based on a certain load. If you remove the headlights for racing the voltage regulator has to turn more current into heat. I’m running this bike at high RPM all the time, producing more electricity than I think this regulator was intended to deal with. So I added a bit of aluminum to help dissipate the extra heat.

The kick start arm, ratchet mechanism and idler gear are gone. The plug seals with an O-ring and bolts in place. I could have reduced the weight more by removing the electric starter system but I like the push button ease.

It may not breathe fire but it may soon be a race bike.

Don’t have a rivet master link? 5 minute epoxy can stick things together, plug holes in radiators and hold master link clips in place.

The TTR has an electric starter so it does not need a kick starter too.

99 practice laps, 91 race laps, 1st in class Mod C, 3rd Overall, best lap on lap 90, 1.12.389

Now for some gearing and more weight reduction.

As your crashed bike slides along the track, you don’t want the front tire to touch the ground and flip the bike. This is why we reduce the steering lock. This is one of many ways to do it. Reduced steering lock is part of every LE race build.

I did a little testing of the TTR125LE and decided to make the fork springs stronger and the rebound damping faster. Then I went after the linkage as you saw in an earlier post. Next I changed the timer mount and made a quick turn throttle using the stock parts. This Saturday is a Track Day and a 2 Hour at Apple Valley Raceway with M1GP.

Woodcraft stuff and a service manual. You can’t race a bike without a service manual.